Much like how music, dialogue, and special effects are crucial aspects of storytelling, so is fashion. Character costumes are a visual language that speaks volumes about a character’s personality, growth, and relationships. The film adaptations of Universal Pictures Wicked are no exception.
Paul Tazewell, the costume designer of Wicked, leaves no stone unturned in bringing all the characters to life with his sartorial charm. From Glinda’s ethereal bubble dress to Elphaba’s grounded, nature-inspired textures, the costumes don’t just adorn the characters; they DEFINE them. Here, we look closer at how Tazewell’s costumes and his intentional design choices bring the Wicked magic to life and us.
About the Movie
Directed by Jon M Chu, Wicked is a prequel to the iconic Wizard of Oz. It explores the untold backstory of Elphaba (Cynthia Erivo), the green-skinned Wicked Witch of the West, and Glinda (Ariana Grande), the Good Witch.
Through their shared time at Shiz University, we see them evolve from unlikely friends to polar opposites because of their personal beliefs, societal pressures, and past traumas. Throughout the movie, fashion becomes a thread that perfectly distinguishes the characters, symbolizing their transitioning beliefs and choices.
About the Designer, Paul Tazewell
Winner of a Tony for Hamilton and Oscar nominee for West Side Story, Paul Tazewell is already a household name in costume design. His designs are popular for being historically rooted and artistically pleasing. That’s why the responsibility for Wicked’s costumes fell upon Tazewell, and he honored it right.
Though a dream project for Tazewell, it came with its unique challenges. After all, Paul had to match the iconic visuals from the Broadway musical while adapting them to the cinematic scope of Oz’s whimsical world.
About the Costumes
While working simultaneously across eight workshops, Tazewell led a team of 140 artisans to bring the costumes to life. The level of intricacy was unparalleled, with designers utilizing techniques like hand-knitting, leatherwork, 3D printing, and laser manipulation.
Glinda and Elphaba alone wore 60 unique looks across both films, with several requiring duplicates for action-heavy scenes. Supporting characters, like Michelle Yeoh’s Madame Morrible or Jonathan Bailey’s Fiyero, brought further depth to the film’s fashion scenario.
One of the most remarkable aspects of Tazewell’s designs is their intentionality. Every stitch, texture, and silhouette ties back to a character’s arc, which you can understand ahead.
Glinda the Good Witch
As Glinda the Good Witch in Wicked, Ariana Grande has us all jaw-dropped with her iconic Bubble Dress from the movie. Grande describes Paul Tazewell as “the most brilliant human being on the planet,” and it’s easy to see why. Her costumes as Glinda often blend femininity and humor, reflecting the character’s diverse personality.
Tazewell describes it as “all pink, butterflies, and graceful.” While it seems light as air, it has every tiny bead and stitch of the massive effort required to bring Glinda to life. It perfectly encompasses Glinda’s personality—airy on the outside but full of strategy and self-awareness beneath the surface.
In one standout scene, the Glinda costume is a soft pink, candy-floss-like dressing gown in her university dorm room—symbolizing immaturity that often masks her ambition. Throughout her arc, her style evolves from delightful frivolity to couture-level polish as Glinda matures into her role as a public figure.
Elphaba, the Wicked Witch of the West
Contrasting Glinda’s levity, Elphaba’s wardrobe is grounded—literally. Actress Cynthia Erivo’s costumes in the movie heavily reference nature, with fabrics textured to resemble fungi and the pleats of mushroom gills. These organic elements strengthen her connection to the earth and her role as a protector of Oz’s animals.
In the initial scenes, Elphaba’s costumes are restrictive and somber, mimicking Victorian mourning attire. This visual language emphasizes her sense of grief and isolation felt after her mother’s demise. Later in the story, however, as Elphaba owns her power, her costumes also gain fluidity and movement. A perfect example is her all-black dress, trimmed with purple ombré that hints at her character’s layered and complex personality.
Madame Morrible, Headmistress of Shiz
Michelle Yeoh’s Madame Morrible, the headmistress of Shiz University, is a study of wisdom and wily. As the Antagonist, her wardrobe speaks volumes about her power-hungry, manipulative personality.
Inspired by the opera and historic costumes, her outfits are lavish yet oppressive and whimsically dark with dragonfly detailing. In both the Wicked movies, Michelle Yeoh wears 12 outfits in total as the Headmistress of Shiz.
Fiyero, the Winkie Prince
Finally, Glinda’s love interest and Elphaba’s friend-turned-lover, Prince Fiyero. His costumes follow a distinct trajectory: from carefree student attire to an Ozian military uniform and finally as “the Scarecrow.” The latter is his most symbolic look—a mix of straw-textured fabrics and patches hinting at his eventual transformation into the iconic Scarecrow from The Wizard of Oz.
As a prince, Fiyero adorns royal blues and fitted ensembles. His wardrobe reflects his charm and carefree nature, making him an approachable and charming character. Paul used leather as a recurring element in building Fiyero’s wardrobe to underscore his sophistication and rugged nature.
Costumes, makeup, and hair have always been essential to the film industry. They help actors embody a character. Behind every memorable scene is a dedicated team working tirelessly to bring the vision to life. From costumes to intricate details, their efforts often go unnoticed by the talents on-screen.
But the Wicked movie fashion scenario reminds us of the incredible efforts made behind the scenes. As movie and fashion enthusiasts, it’s time we recognized and celebrated these creative contributions that bring stories to life in true fashion sense.
